Off to See the Wizard - Kulgera to Yulara

Our morning started with a gorgeous sunrise, accentuated by the clouds that had arrived overnight.

Today was a bit shorter than yesterday, as we turned off the Stuart highway onto the Lassiter Highway to Yulara.

The landscape continues to evolve as we drive along, now the plains are dotted with very tall, slim casurinas.

We had heard people say that many are fooled into thinking they are getting their first glimpse of Uluṟu (Ayers Rock), whereas they are actually seeing Mount Connor.  Someone told us today that the locals have nicknamed it “Foolaru”.  Once you get closer it is obviously quite different.

We called in to a lookout to get photos of Mount Commor, where there were loads of zebra finches hopping around making a pleasant chirping noise. They don’t like sitting still for their portrait.

While we were there, we noticed lots of people crossing the road and climbing a sand dune. We assumed it was to get a better photo from a higher vantage point, so decided to follow suit.

We were in for a bit of a surprise as we topped the dune.  That’s not what we expected.  The salt lake was huge,  I don’t know what it is called, as it isn’t mentioned on the map.  There was no indication at the car park that it was there.  Several people took their photo of Mount Connor and drove on.  I bet they would be disappointed if they knew what they had missed.

Having climbed up there, it became obvious that all the small hills we had been passing as we drove along were in fact sand dunes.  I think of sand dunes as being devoid of vegetation, like you see in the Sahara Desert, but these had a wide variety of vegetation living on them.

During our guided walk of the Botanic Gardens at Port Augusta we had been introduced to the Regal Bird Plant.  They were a rather spindly little plant with cute green flowers that looked like birds.  Well up here, they are growing wild and are a much larger, more robust plant and loaded with flowers.

A flower was on the ground.  So sweet and striking against the rich red sand. You can definitely see where the plant gets its name and also why this area is known as the “Red Centre”.

There were also more Eremophilas, bush tomatoes and a cute little paper daisy I hadn’t seen before.

The porcupine grass that Mick was so taken with at the Botanic Gardens is everywhere here.

After a while we caught our first glimpse of Ularu - well Mick spotted it first.  It was kind of like when we head to the coast, each of us hoping the be the first to say “I see the sea”.  Mick is usually the first with that as well.  It was rather like the rock was teasing us, as it appeared and then disappeared. The road is rather undulating and meandering, rather than the expected straight and flat.

Before long, The Olgas were playing the same tricks.  Yes, Mick spotted them first as well.

Eventually, we arrived at our destination of Yulara, and the Ayers Rock Resort. It is a huge complex, more like a town than a tourist resort, but I suppose that is what is required for the most popular tourist destination in the country.

We were heading to the campground, and more specifically the Overflow Campground.  When we booked yesterday we had been advised that check in was from 3pm, but we could queue before then.  Well, we arrived at about 12.30pm and were met by two fellows directing us where to park.  Once parked, we went over to the reception area, joined the queue waiting to check in.  The process was very simple and we were set up by one o’clock, in time to have lunch.

We had heard and read so many varying reports and opinions on the overflow campground.  Don’t park up the back as the noise of the diesel powered power station will drive you barmy.  You get nothing for your money.  It’s too far from the amenities.  You’re packed in like sardines.  It’s so spacious.  It never fills up.  Get in early as it fills up quickly,  It’s terrible.  It’s perfect…….and on and on.  This is what we found:

It is a very large, flat, red dirt area.  Dead level, so easy to set up.  There are no marked out sites and everyone appeared to set up leaving a courteous distance between them and their neighbours.  We didn’t have to queue for long at all at the reception parking.  The cost is $45.00 per night for an unpowered site.  

Yes, this is dear, but we are in the middle of the desert at the most popular tourist destination in Australia and do have access to the very good amenities of the campground. 

The only amenities in the overflow are a bank of portaloos and a garbage skip.  We are parked conveniently close, but not too close to them.  They are clean.  It isn’t too far to the main amenities from where we are parked.  That may be different for those parked at the other end.  The power station does thrum away in the background.  It sounds like a train idling over in a station.  Inside the van we can hardly hear it, but once again, we are parked some distance from it. Oh, and we have good internet coverage as well.

All in all, we are very happy where we are.

Once set up, we went for a wander to get our bearings. We found a path to the little shopping centre and stumbled upon a lookout.  Some kind people took our photo.

Yes, I know, another flower.  I’m guessing it is a grevillea.

We had a wander around, found out some information on walks etc and then wandered back to camp for afternoon tea.  We had a few visitors.  The galahs and top knot pigeons are not shy at all, unlike the Zebra finches.

As the afternoon closed in, we decided to go back up to the lookout to watch the sunset.  We weren’t the only ones with that idea.  It was a nice gathering of people.

The sun was obscured by cloud, which was a little disappointing, but not something we can control. Yep, the one part of the sky with cloud down to the horizon.

However, we still waited and hoped we would see some colour and were rewarded with some lovely sort colours.

When we turned around there was also some nice colours.

And even more colour once we returned to the campground and it was nearly dark.

Once back at the van Mick lit our fire pit and we enjoyed sitting around it for a little while before we cooked tea.  For the first time this trip it has been warm enough to cook on the barbie.  We enjoyed some beautiful rissoles we had bought in Coober Pedy with mash, veg and onion gravy.  Yummo.

As the fire died down to some nice coals we couldn’t resist making a couple of slices of toast, not that we needed if after our tea, but it was a nice way to end the day.

The highlight of the day for Mick was the barbecue rissoles and sitting in front of the fire and for me it was seeing the plants we had learned about at the Botanic Gardens thriving in the wild.  

That may sound strange, when we have had our first views of Ularu, but I think we will be more in awe of it tomorrow when we start to play the tourist.