Thursday, 5 March 2015

New Zealand – Te Anau to Queenstown

Now that we have been home for a week and a half I’m finally getting back to sharing our New Zealand holiday.  I want to keep putting up posts, as a record for myself as much as anything.  As it is, I have the map sitting next to me to remember place names.

So, after our wonderful day to Milford Sound we were on the road again, this time heading to Queenstown.

We saw our first wind farm in NZ.  I suppose they don’t need them as much, as they have such a large hydro electric system.

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We then followed an old railway corridor which has been developed for cycling and walking.  Lots of new infrastructure along the way.  Which brings me to the number of cyclists on the road.  I can’t think of a harder way to travel, they were all heavily loaded with panniers and there is not a lot of flat ground.  You would need to be super fit…….or you would be fit by the time you finished.

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We enjoyed a coffee at this cute coffee van.  We actually saw four Airstreams set up as coffee vans.  This one had been imported from Washington State in the USA.  They had done a great job converting it, and the coffee was good too.

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It wasn’t all that long until we came to yet another lake.  They sure are plentiful.  This is Lake Wakatipu.

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It is quite long and narrow and the road follows along the shore line.

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This part of the road is called The Devil’s Staircase”.

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Queenstown is on the northern part of the lake.  A rather picturesque setting.  Queenstown sees the end of the Scenic Southern Route that we had been following for the last several days.  It had been an ideal guide to follow during that time.

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Queenstown is known for it ski fields in the winter and it’s water sports and outdoor activities in the warmer months.  We watched a couple of jet boat go through their paces in the harbour.

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The weather continued to be nice and warm, so we enjoyed sitting by the harbour watching the world go by.  There was a lot of the world there to watch too, with most accommodation being booked out and everywhere very busy.

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This stylish old lady is the the TSS Earnslaw and has been plying her trade on the lake since 1912.  She was prefabricated in Dunedin and then dismantled and transported to Queenstown before being reassembled there.  She has been used to transport all sorts of cargo as well as passengers over that time.

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No, we didn’t  go for a ride on any of them.

I had to chuckle at these symbols on the public loos. Yep, they were unisex.

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No, Mick isn’t in a little English village with a babbling brook.  This quaint bridge is at the entrance to the Queenstown Police Station.

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Everyone told us that we had to take a ride on the gondola which overlooks Queenstown.  However, right next door we saw this….The Birdlife Park.  They have a Kiwi House and as to see a Kiwi was high on Mick’s wish list we decided to visit there instead.  We don’t regret our decision.

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We arrived just in time to see their presentation.  This is a tuatara, which hasn’t changed since dinousaur times.

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The presentation was really informative.  It is rather embarrassing how little about New Zealand we knew, considering they are our nearest neighbour. 

I was unaware that prior to man arriving, New Zealand only had three mammals, which were all varieties of bats.  As a result their birds had very little in the way of predators, which made them easy prey for the introduced species.  There are now loads of rabbits, hares, possums, cats and stoats.  Stoats are particularly nasty.  New Zealand is, however, still fox free.  The Maoris would have had a very healthy diet of fish and birds.

The presenter told us about the kiwi and had a rather scruffy example to show.  Look at the size of the egg.  It is about a third of the bird’s size – the largest proportioned egg of any bird.

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“Pestilence” the possum came out.  Possums are a huge problem.  They were initially introduced for the fur trade – by a New Zealander – but they went a tad feral.  They are darker and larger than the Aussie ones.  They will also eat eggs out of bird nests.  Numbers have been greatly reduced by a big trapping and culling program, but there are still more possums in NZ than sheep.  I saw a t-shirt which said “Possums – New Zealand’s little speed humps”.  There certainly were lots of dead ones on the road.

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Another Aussie import that has become a problem in NZ is our pretty rainbow lorikeets.  Apparently they are often released after people tire of them as pets and they take over the nests of other birds, kicking out the native bird’s eggs.

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The park is really strong on conservation, so most of the birds on display were ones that had been injured and wouldn’t survive in the wild.  They were rather hard to photograph.  This is a kea with a broken wing.  Apparently they have the intelligence of a four year old.

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Yes, we did see two kiwis being fed in their kiwi house.  No photos allowed.  Kiwis are nocturnal so their house has day and night reversed.  Mick was happy to have seen them.

We finished off our day with a special dinner, seated on a balcony overlooking the lake and the mountains behind. 

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Another day in paradise.

Saturday, 28 February 2015

February Finishes

Despite being away for most of the month I do have a couple of finishes to share.  They were still secret until I went away.

Firstly, I’m on a roll with tea towels.

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The other project that I couldn’t share was this set of placemats that I made as a gift for Lou and Tony in New Zealand.

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Lou gave us a lovely table runner, which looks great on our dining table.  Both good, practical gifts.

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Hopefully I will have a few bits and bobs done for next month.  There is nothing like OPAM to keep a girl honest.

Friday, 20 February 2015

New Zealand – Milford Sound

Everyone you speak to who has been to the South Island recommends a visit to Milford Sound.  Rightly so, too.  We had been advised to get out there relatively early to beat the many bus loads that arrive every day.  Therefore we hit the road nice and early, a bit before 7am.

Milford Sound is 120kms out from Te Anau.  There is only one road out and back.  It was quite foggy when we left, so we didn’t get to see much scenery at first.

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We didn’t stop at many places on our way out, as we weren’t sure how long it would take.  However, we had been told to make sure we stopped at the Mirror Lakes as they are best seen in the morning while the weather is calm.

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The weather played nicely, no ripples, except when a duck landed, and the fog had nearly cleared.

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Some random pics from along the way.

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The cruise we chose (there are many options) was a Nature Cruise that left at 10.30 and ran for two and a half hours. It wasn’t too crowded, which was good.  Here is our boat.

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The famous Mitre Peak, which rises 1600 metres from the sea.

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The weather couldn’t have been better – fine and sunny.  We were reminded just how lucky we were, as Milford Sound is the wettest inhabited place on earth.  To receive 10 inches of rain in one day is not unheard of.

We were also told that we were in a Fjord, not a Sound.  A Sound is created by a river, whereas a Fjord is created by a glacier.  The name “Sound” was given before the true nature of the area was known, so has stuck.

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The only downside of fine weather was that not as many waterfalls were running.  This one is Fairy Falls.

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The boat captain nosed the vessel right up to the cliff face.  That says something about how deep the water is there.

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As we headed along he unfurled one of the sails, if only for show.  Here we are about to leave the sound and enter the Tasman Sea.

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We stood up at the pointy end of the boat for most of the trip, which was fun, especially once headed into the open sea.  Yes, I do have my warm red hat  and coat on and it wasn’t for show.  It was freezing, despite the sun shining.

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It wasn’t long before we turned around and headed back into the sound.  Apparently, several early sailors had passed this point without realising the vast stretch of water which lay behind the entrance.

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More seals.  Common damn things.

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Mick and I decided to go upstairs on the boat and we were glad once we reached this next waterfall, as the boat nosed right in and the people down the front got rather soaked.

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This is the highest of the waterfalls.

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You don’t realise how high it is until you see a rather large boat sitting at the bottom.  That puts things into perspective.

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More beautiful scenery.  Imagine what it must be like when there is more snow on the hills.

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After our cruise, we headed back to Te Anau.  Another stop we were advised to make was “The Chasm”.  It was a lovely ferny walk in.

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Here it is.  The water comes rushing down the river, over some strange shaped rocks……..

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And then plummets into a rather deep chasm.  We viewed it from a bridge across the river, so rather hard to get photos.  Just take my word for it, it was spectacular.

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Look at the wonderful tall trees on the walk back to the car.

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What I didn’t tell you about on our way out was the tunnel.  The road is windy, but not as narrow as we had expected.  Towards the sound you actually travel through a tunnel.  The entrance isn’t terribly interesting from the top side, but the road is really steep within the tunnel and continues to be very steep for quite a while as you travel down towards the sound.  You can appreciate it a bit better on the way back.  This wall of granite is what had to be penetrated.

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The signage gives you a bit of an idea of how the road was built, mainly by hand, as it was too difficult to get equipment in.

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See the white horizontal line about a third of the way up on the below picture, at the edge of the greenery…well that is the entrance to the tunnel.  What a task it must have been.  Apparently, during construction, wages, mail and some supplies were delivered to the workers by someone coming down that cliff on a rope. Crazy!

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I love the way this photo of the exit of the tunnel turned out.

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One final photo. This is the Eglinton River Plains looking back towards the sound.  It was in fog in the morning, but how stunning is that!  Perfectly flat ground with the mountains behind.

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We didn’t arrive back at Te Anau until nearly 6 pm.  It surprised us how our day filled up and how tired we were by the time we returned.  Lots of people travel by coach from Queenstown, another two hours away.  You would spend half of your time sleeping in the bus.  We were glad that we didn’t have any further to travel on the day.

As you have probably gathered, our trip to Milford Sound was a highlight of our journey and one that shouldn’t be missed.